Toronto in a heat wave

I left New York for Toronto on another epic bus journey. Thank god for ipods is all I can say. Mine meant I could block out the sound of the woman behind me throwing up...nice! When we approached the Canadian border, we all had to get off the bus with all of our things and go through customs which took an age and then it was on to the city and one of the loveliest hostels I have ever stayed in. The breakfast selection was like taking your pick in the cereal and bagel aisle in the supermarket.

After refueling and armed with extensive information and a map, I set off the explore in the wall of heat. I walked through 'The Annex' an artsy cafe district, then into bustling China Town - It seemed to me even bigger than New York's - and on to the city center where I was told about a farmer's market in the old market buildings. I got there just in time to grab end of the day bargains, heaps of fresh produce. By the time I made it back to the hostel, I was melting and rather disgusting so I headed to the free local outdoor pool just round the corner. Not so much fun on my own and without goggles but it was still good and what Frida and I had been searching for in our hot and sticky travels!

I spent the next day exploring the city on foot again, returning to the market for a stroll round the antiques fair and then going on to the distillery district which has been regenerated with the old buildings turned into artists studios and cafes with lots of sculptures on display in public spaces.

 

From there, I wandered along the waterfront to the ferry terminal and caught a ferry out a little way into Lake Ontario to Toronto Island. I wandered from one end to the other, stopping to dip my feet in the lake and watch others swim from the beaches. There were lots of families on the island enjoying hiring pedal carts a bit like the Chuckle Brothers had. That looked fun, especially in the back where you could presumably get away without pedalling so much! I made it to the other end of the island just in time for the ominous grey clouds to roll in. As we chugged back across the bay, the rain began coming down in stair rods and the deluge lasted about an hour. The streets were awash and people were soaked to the skin in seconds. Luckily I found a little sheltered spot to wait it out with my kindle for company.

  

The main reason for a visit to Toronto was to visit Niagara falls. I had an inkling that the area surrounding the falls might be quite tacky but nothing prepared me for just how bad it really was. The falls are incredible but for me totally overshadowed by the sheer crap that has been allowed to be built there. The Canadians are the worst offenders.At least the Americans have given the immediate area around them national park status. Casinos, theme park rides, ugly hotels...and all in the same eye line as the falls...ugh!

Oh well, I had gone there to see the falls so I had to make the most of it.

I crossed over the bridge into the U.S. and made my way to the mecca for any falls tourist, The Maid of the Mist experience. After an elevator ride (thank you for not putting one of these in Yosemite) down to the river, we were issued with gorgeous blue ponchos (which acted like greenhouses in the heat) and herded onto the boat. By now I was fed up with other selfish tourists, so out came my filthy look to guard my small piece of boat. We headed off up to the falls for a closer view and to get a welcome soaking. Despite all my grumbling so far, they really are spectacular and it was lovely to see them close up. Hard to believe that someone stupid survived when he came over them in a barrel. I tramped around the U.S side to see them from every angle (and to delay my return to my personal idea of hell). I'm glad I went, but I won't be sad to never return.

  

 

Toronto, on the other hand, is a city which might be nice to live in. I enjoyed my time stomping the streets even if I did wear a hole right through my favourite sandals doing so! It is not a pretty city - heaps of concrete mean many public buildings are really quite ugly - but they are trying. Everywhere you look there is construction happening and new buildings going up. It also has a great feeling of life and vitality. Lots of people cycle, there is a lot of public transport, there are several universities so it feels young and vibrant, there is great diversity and it is very gay friendly. On the downside, there is a lot of graffiti and its not particularly clean. They also have a huge homelessness problem which they at least recognise and are trying to address. I went on a walking tour and my guide was explaining that there is quite a lot of compassion for the homeless, with hospitals, churches and social services agencies working to try and help those on the streets.

  

My final quest in Toronto was to see the Picasso exhibition at the Art Gallery of Ontario. I love seeing Picasso's many diverse styles and I wasn't disappointed here either. I just wish I hadn't read so much of the commentary as I was reminded that he wasn't a very nice man.


Another overnight bus journey back to NYC where I had one final stop, the Guggenheim museum. The building alone makes a visit worthwhile. The spiral walkway leads you all the way to the top, with most of the art being hung around this spiral. You can then look down at any point and see the works from different perspectives.


There was also a special exhibition of work by Dutch photographer Rineke Dijkstra. Her pieces are mostly portraits. One set of pictures followed a girl, who was a Bosnian immigrant to Holland, from the day she arrived as a young girl to the present day where she is now a mother. The artists was also fascinated by people going clubbing in Liverpool and had a series of their portraits as well as videos of them dancing. The man with the dance routine to heavy metal was captivating.

It was another hot and sticky day and I had to laugh as I looked far from my best. I chose today of all days to unwittingly walk to the museum along Madison Avenue, New York's equivalent of Bond Street. If there was anywhere I didn't fit in, that would be it! To top it off, as I was eating lunch on a bench I was approached by a woman who asked me if I wanted to be in a commercial for blood cancer awareness. Errr...ok...what do I have to do? Oh just go and sit in one of those chairs...It was all rather odd, and as already mentioned I looked a state, but apparently they weren't too bothered, they were just desperate for people.

To end the day, just as I was waiting out in the open for my bus, there was the mother of all thunder storms with sheet lightning and a wall of rain. This was all fine whilst I could find some shelter, but it was impossible by the bus stop itself and it was my turn to get soaked to the skin. I rescued a cardigan from my bag and joined everyone else on the bus in stripping off and turning the aisles into waterfalls. I think I preferred the heat...