Spring break in Philly

Spring break finally arrived and brought with it spectacular weather so it was off to the beach for a wander and an icecream. A perfect start to vacation!

On my list of things to do in the States was to take a bus trip. I always had a romantic notion of Greyhound travel thanks to various movies, however, this was shattered when someone told me that those buses really were the pits, often stopping at casinos to drop off/pick up the desperate along the way. Hmmm...further investigations into economy travel revealed Megabus were alive and well in the States too, would allow me to get to Philadelphia and back for under $70 and wouldn't take much longer than travelling by plane. So, on Sunday night, I took the budget option and embarked on my first overnight bus journey since mission get home from Portugal. This time there were no breakdowns and no smelly feet from fellow passengers, there was just a not all that comfortable seat and being dropped off at 6 in the morning in a dark and fairly dodgy looking street. Oh well...all part of the adventure I thought to myself and headed off in the direction of the train station to find the subway. Thankfully it turned out to be very easy to find my hostel located in the Old City and then begin my self-guided tour of Philly.

First stop: Reading Terminal Market. I had deliberations over where to stop for breakfast but a bakery stall won with their delicious looking cherry, walnut and apple bagels. Sandwiched with cream cheese, it didn't disappoint. Yum! Fuelled up, I began my trek around the city, taking in lots of the street art in sparkling sunshine as I got my bearings.

 

Then it was off to learn some more about American history at Independence Hall. Philadelphia was the first capital of the United States and was home to many of her important founders. The name you cannot escape is Benjamin Franklin - he had many jobs: inventor, postmaster, author, printer and politician. When the Americans were fighting for independence from British Rule, the declaration of independence and bill of rights were debated, drawn up and signed in Philly.

Benjamin Franklin's post office

The liberty bell is also on display, although it has been out of use for over a century because of its crack. It was fascinating to read about how the bell has become a symbol in the fight for 'liberty, freedom and justice for all' over the years. Firstly in relation to American independence, then later in the fight for a woman's right to vote, the civil rights movement and even today is used by protests seeking equality.

I tramped around to other historical sites too including Elfreth's Alley, said to be the oldest street in America where Mr Franklin is believed to have lived at some point, and The Betsy Ross House, Betsy Ross being the woman who designed the stars and stripes. I also popped down to see the Delaware River from Penn's landing but it is an odd strip of waterfront as it is separated from the rest of the city by a ginormous interstate.

Elfreth's Alley

On Tuesday, first stop was the Art Musuem to see 'Van Gogh up close' via the Rodin garden. It was incredibly popular and you had to wade through the masses to get close to the paintings but it was a really interesting exhibition which focussed on paintings he did from 1886-1890. Having a head set was great as the narration included exerpts of the letters sent between Van Gogh and members of his family and gave background details about these 'turmultuous years' of his life. The permanent collection of the museum was interesting too, with lots of work by Monet, Cezanne and Picasso.

Sylvester 'Rocky' Stallone's gift to the Museum of Art

Once I was all arted out, I strolled through some of Fairmont park behind the museum and then headed off to the Eastern State Penitentiary. It was shut down in 1971 and left empty for twenty years until eventually they decided to turn it into a museum. As a result of being deserted for so long, lots of the prison fell into disrepair and still hasn't been completely restored - the result is eerie and a little spooky (I wouldn't want to be there after dark!) It was a fascinating couple of hours. You get a head set and a map and then can just wander round at your own pace as you listen to the history of the building and hear from ex-employees and inmates. It was interesting to hear how the nature of incarceration changed from 1790's solitary cells with their own exercise yards (when it was believed true penitence could only be gained from having complete silence - the guards even wore cloth over their shoes so they could not be heard walking the corridors) to a prison where inmates did lots of jobs and played together on sports teams. The prison had a fully functioning hospital with operating theatre and resident surgeons and each wing had its own barbers shop. You could also see Al Capone's cell where he spent a couple of months in luxury thanks to his relationships with the guards and also see  where an inmate managed to dig an escape tunnel. He took 4 others inmates with him, however, within hours all but one of them had been caught and the last returned of his own accord because he was hungry!

 

 

After exploring the city on foot, it was time to put my faith in America's public transport system. There is lots to do in Pennsylvania...if you have a car. Tell hepful tourist office people you don't have one and they look flummoxed and run out of suggestions. I was pointed in the direction of Valley Forge Historical park though, just outside of Philly (accessible by bus). During the American revolution, when the British were in possession of the city, Washington and his troops set up camp at Valley Forge to sit out the winter of 1777-78. They built huts to live in, spurred on by freezing conditions and the promise of $15 for the first completed hut. Many troops died of disease during the winter, supplies often struggled to get through and life was tough. Come Spring, an ex-Prussian general was brought in by Washington to train the troops formally and methodically. The continental army was then eventually victorious in chasing out the British. A chapel was built as a memorial to Washington. Apparently the statue of him is the only one of a general you are ever likely to see where he is sitting in contemplation rather than in a battle pose.

On my last day I decided to try and get out into Lancaster county to see the Amish farmlands Again, without a car, no-one could actually tell me whether this was a possible feat unless I took a ridiculously expensive bus tour but I thought i'd try anyway. I caught a train to Lancaster, possibly the most depressing place in Pennsylvania, walked to the tourist office in the centre of town where a very helpful man gave me a bus timetable and sent me off to see the town of Intercourse (snigger snigger). This is where Harrison Ford filmed some of his scenes for the film 'Witness'. It is now a tourist mecca thanks to a shopping village that has sprung up around a jam factory shop the Amish community set up in the 50s. Doing the tourist thing, I hopped on a buggy ride for about an hour through the countryside. Our guide was a retired Amish farmer who answered every question the shamelessly uninhibited American woman behind me asked so I now feel relatively well-informed. It was bizarre to see people in traditional dress farming the land with mules and being pulled along the roads in tiny buggies by beautiful horses as their neighbours mowed their lawns in jeans and raced by in their cars.

 

The store used in 'Witness'

I can't say the return to youth hostelling was enjoyable especially as I returned to find they'd made a mistake with my booking, accused me of outstaying my welcome and had kicked me out of my room. The journey back was a long one but interesting as we passed through New Jersey, entered New York over the Washington Bridge, drove up through Connecticut, Massachusettes and into Maine. Philly was well worth the trip but being back in my own bed was wonderful!

Manhattan skyline from the Washington Bridge